The Dutra brothers
When quality is a way of life
In Manhuacu, a remote inland area at the south-eastern tip of Minas Gerais in Brazil, 70 percent of agricultural activity is dedicated to coffee growing.
But coastline living beckons, persuading some talented growers to abandon their plantations for seaside pursuits. Not for the Dutra brothers, whose family’s long-running love affair with coffee anchors their commitment to the crop. In a way, they embody the logic behind illycaffè’s policy to reward talented growers dedicated to coffee with higher prices.
At an altitude of 1700 meters, below the peak of Mount Taquara Preta and as far as the eye can see, the surrounding hills are covered with coffee plantations. Ednilson and Walter Dutra tell the story of their father José, who used to work on the plantation and, little by little, bought his land, grew a hundred plants and brought his entire family into the business.
The Dutra brothers were born here. Today, one of their pickers, named Wagner, is buying a small piece of land. In a few years’ time, he will also have his own fazenda.
Isn’t there competition among other fazendeiros? “The more of us there are, the better. Then we are in a better position to defend our product, and its quality,” replies Wagner. “It’s a crop that pays. The demand for Brazilian coffee is growing by one and half percent a year, but the demand for high quality coffee has risen by as much as ten percent, and is rising all the time.”
The brothers studied agronomy at Vicosa, attended illycaffè’s Università del Caffè in Sao Paolo, and have their own, clear ideas about quality. They are also part of the Minas Gerais Coffee Association, supported by illycaffè’s own agronomists.
They haven’t yet placed among the top three producers in illycaffè’s annual Quality Award competition, but they are among the top 50. They are satisfied, knowing their achievement places them among the world’s premier producers. But they strive higher.
They are also happy with their plantation, cultivated by nearly 100 percent organically; pesticides and chemical intervention are not necessary at this altitude.
So what is the essential ingredient for an excellent harvest?
“Constant care,” the brothers reply in unison.
